There are some places you visit where you immediately feel as though you have stepped somewhere completely different. Portmeirion in North Wales is one of those places.

Nestled on the shores of the Dwyryd Estuary near Porthmadog, Portmeirion is unlike almost anywhere else in Britain. With its brightly coloured buildings, ornate architecture, winding pathways, fountains, gardens and spectacular views across the estuary, it feels more like a Mediterranean village than somewhere in Gwynedd.

And that is exactly the point.

Portmeirion was the vision of Welsh architect Sir Clough Williams-Ellis, who wanted to create a beautiful village inspired by the Italian Riviera. Construction began in 1926 and continued over several decades. The result is one of Wales’ most recognisable and unusual tourist attractions.

As I walked around Portmeirion, I couldn’t help but think that this is one of those places where you need to slow down and look around you. There is something interesting everywhere you turn.

A village unlike any other

The first thing that strikes you about Portmeirion is the architecture.

The colourful buildings seem almost too perfect to be real. There are arches, domes, towers, columns, statues and decorative details everywhere. The Central Piazza provides one of the most recognisable views, while Battery Square, the Campanile and the surrounding buildings all add to the feeling that you have wandered into another country.

Sir Clough Williams-Ellis designed Portmeirion as a celebration of architecture, colour and landscape. Rather than allowing the buildings to dominate their surroundings, he incorporated them into the natural environment.

Today, the village sits within a much larger estate containing woodland, gardens, coastal scenery and the estuary. The combination of architecture and nature is one of the things that makes Portmeirion so special.

Visit Wales describes it as a place where pastel-coloured buildings, subtropical gardens and a waterfront setting come together to create something unlike anywhere else in Wales.

And I have to agree.

The Prisoner connection

For television fans, Portmeirion has an additional attraction.

It was the filming location for the legendary 1960s television series The Prisoner, starring Patrick McGoohan.

In the series, Portmeirion became “The Village”, the mysterious location where McGoohan’s character, Number Six, finds himself imprisoned.

The series was filmed at Portmeirion during 1966 and 1967 and went on to become one of the great cult television shows of the 1960s. Portmeirion still embraces that connection today, and you can see references to The Prisoner throughout the village.

One of the most famous locations is the Round House, which was used as Number Six’s home. It is now home to The Prisoner Shop.

There is even an annual Prisoner Convention, attracting fans of the series to the village.

You don’t have to be a fan of The Prisoner to appreciate Portmeirion, but if you are, walking around the village must feel like stepping directly into the television series.

The official Portmeirion website describes the village as the backdrop for the cult classic and highlights the way its surreal Mediterranean architecture helped create the distinctive atmosphere of the programme.

And, of course, there is that famous line:

“I am not a number. I am a free man!”

Portmeirion’s film and television history

The Prisoner isn’t the only production to have used Portmeirion.

The village has proved to be an incredibly popular filming location because of its distinctive appearance. It can represent somewhere completely different without the need for huge amounts of set construction.

According to Portmeirion itself, productions filmed there have included Kipps, Danger Man, The Green Helmet, Doctor Who, Citizen Smith, Brideshead Revisited, Treasure Hunt, The Tripods, Top Gear, The Laughing Prisoner, Under Suspicion and Cold Feet.

One particularly interesting connection is Doctor Who. The village was used for the programme in 1976, adding another chapter to its long association with British television.

The 1981 television adaptation of Brideshead Revisited also used Portmeirion, while the location subsequently appeared in Cold Feet.

For fans of British television, therefore, Portmeirion is almost like walking through a living film set.

And that is one of the things I particularly enjoyed about visiting. You aren’t simply looking at buildings; you are looking at places that have appeared on television screens across the country.

It isn’t just about television

However, I would strongly recommend visiting Portmeirion even if you have never watched The Prisoner.

There is so much more to discover.

The gardens and woodland are beautiful and provide a complete contrast to the colourful village. The wider estate includes The Gwyllt, a substantial woodland garden containing a fascinating collection of plants and trees.

There are also wonderful views towards the Dwyryd Estuary, making it a great place for photographers.

For someone who enjoys photography, Portmeirion is almost impossible to resist.

Every corner seems to offer another photograph.

A brightly painted building.

A doorway.

A statue.

The Campanile.

The reflections in the water.

The estuary.

The woodland.

The mountains in the distance.

Even if you visit on a cloudy Welsh day, there is still plenty to photograph.

Take your time

One mistake would be to treat Portmeirion as somewhere you simply walk around quickly, take a few photographs and leave.

Take your time.

Wander down the paths. Explore the different squares. Look at the architectural details. Walk through the gardens. Find the viewpoints overlooking the estuary.

There are also shops, cafés, galleries and places to eat, making it possible to turn your visit into a proper day out rather than simply a quick stop.

The village also has accommodation, including Hotel Portmeirion and other properties within the estate, so it is possible to stay and experience Portmeirion after the day visitors have gone.

Why should you visit Portmeirion?

For me, the biggest reason is simple: it is different.

North Wales is famous for its mountains, castles, beaches, waterfalls and heritage railways, but Portmeirion offers something completely different.

It is quirky.

It is colourful.

It is historic.

It is beautiful.

It is photogenic.

And it has an extraordinary connection with British television.

Whether you are travelling around Wales in a motorhome, planning a family day out, looking for somewhere different to visit or simply exploring North Wales, Portmeirion deserves a place on your itinerary.

It is also ideally placed for exploring some of the other attractions in the area, including Porthmadog, the Ffestiniog Railway, Beddgelert and the spectacular landscapes of Eryri (Snowdonia).

For me, though, the real attraction is the experience of simply being there.

Portmeirion doesn’t feel like a conventional tourist attraction. It feels like somewhere that has been created from someone’s imagination and then somehow brought to life.

You can stand in the Central Piazza and feel as though you are in Italy.

Walk through the woodland and feel completely immersed in nature.

Look across the estuary and remember that you are actually in North Wales.

Then spot Number Six’s house and suddenly find yourself thinking about 1960s television.

That combination is what makes Portmeirion so memorable.

So, if you’re planning a trip around Wales, put Portmeirion on your list.

Come for the architecture.

Stay for the scenery.

Explore the gardens.

Discover the television history.

And, if you’re a fan of The Prisoner, prepare to hear one phrase repeatedly in your head as you walk around the village:

Be seeing you!